Trend Watch: Robes Rule
September 15, 2015 - garden totes
When Princess Diana’s matrimony was descending detached and she indispensable a
photographer to assistance recast her as sexy, eccentric and carefree, Patrick
Demarchelier was a male she called on. When Madonna was finished with her “Sex”
book and indispensable a lurch of elegance, she did a same.
Over a years, Mr. Demarchelier has photographed them and large others
in sexy though classically flattering spreads for Vogue, Glamour, Vanity Fair,
W, Harper’s Bazaar, Cosmopolitan and Allure.
So it shouldn’t warn that editors from many of these magazines
were in assemblage during Christie’s on Wednesday night, toasting Mr.
Demarchelier during an muster of his many iconic images, many of which
hark behind to a supermodel era, when Linda Evangelista, Christy
Turlington, Cindy Crawford and Kate Moss ruled a roost.
There to a left was Glamour’s Cindi Leive, whose arriving cover picture Mr.
Demarchelier had only shot. “Twenty-three hours ago,” she said, adding that she would not remotely be meddlesome in divulgence a subject’s name.
There to a right was Vogue’s conform director, Tonne Goodman, who worked
with Mr. Demarchelier during Harper’s Bazaar in a 1990s and during Vogue over
the final decade.
Overwhelmingly, his colleagues praised him for his speed on set, his strong
eye and his exquisite taste, that has not wavered even in this blown-out, porno-chic era.
They also marveled during how distant Mr. Demarchelier has come, since roughly no
one who has met him in a decades he has spent in a Unites States
understands a word he says.
In fact, over a years, Mr. Demarchelier’s singular mix of French and
English has turn so mythological that there is a doubt asked customarily in the
industry before people are brought onto jobs with him: “Do we speak
For a male famous for being chipper in a margin of depressives, his sole
resentment is toward consonants. If a somnambulant Frenchman picked adult a
six-year-old cellphone, a sound would be remarkably identical to Mr.
Demarchelier’s bland speech.
“It’s taken me years to interpret a language,” Ms. Goodman said. “The best
is when Patrick is articulate to a luminary and a luminary has that look
on their face like they are perplexing desperately to know what he’s
saying and they can’t let on they do not.”
“No one understands anything he says,” Grace Coddington said. “But he calls
the models ‘bebe’ and says ‘fabulous’ and ‘diveeeeene,’ and he creates them
And so they mount on beaches, distortion atop of Frette sheets and yield across
the dried silt for a high male with a wavy gray hair, who goes
snap, snap, snap and grunts with approval.
Mr. Demarchelier — who stood in a dilemma looking accidentally stylish in his
greenish Hermès blazer, his blue Hermès shirt, his washed-out J Crew jeans
and his New Balance Sneakers — pronounced a many critical thing is to capture
beauty, inside and out.
“I like to sketch a certain approach of life” was how he put it. “I like
the beauty, a beauty inside.”
And he has no illusions that a difference that upsurge from his mouth are not
deciphered by all. It creates him laugh.
“My accent is strong,” he said. “Sometimes we do TV interview, and we see the
subtitles underceese. Or a contend ‘Do we mind vocalization English?’ ”